This post was written by Lindy Shopper.
I hear a lot of positive remarks about my vintage clothing, but there’s always a BUT when people who don’t own vintage clothing talk about buying it for themselves – “I’d love to have vintage clothing, but…” there’s always something stopping them. I’d like to address some of the myths and concerns that people have because there is a world of wonderful, one of a kind clothing out there and you can own a part of it.
The most common myth I have heard is that vintage clothing only comes in tiny sizes or that people were smaller back then and I can’t find anything to fit me. Yes, a lot of people were smaller back then, didn’t get enough calcium in their bones, and many people didn’t grow to some of the larger proportions we have today; however, that doesn’t mean that people in the 1920’s, 1930’s and 1940’s came in one size: small. Just like today, there were people of all sizes, including YOUR size.
I’ve looked at photographs of my great-grandmother and great-grandfather from the 1930’s and she is bigger than he is. She certainly had clothing to wear every day of her life. While I don’t have any of her clothes, I am certain that she would be considered around a size 14 or 16 by today’s standards. These clothes existed!
So where do you find these not-25-inch-waist sizes? You just have to look for them and be patient. Your average vintage clothing store may not even carry 1930’s and 1940’s, much less 1920’s, clothing; if they do, they will probably only have a few garments or a very small section. They may only have one garment in your size or they may not have any. Out of the many vintage stores I visit every year I may only come up with 2 or 3 garments. If you live near a vintage store, make friends with the owner, tell him/her what you are looking for and give him/her your measurements. If you are traveling to an area with a vintage store you want to check out, call ahead – I’d rather not waste my time if they don’t carry clothes from the swing era or don’t have anything that would come close to fitting me.
As a side note to men: Men wear their clothing out. This is true back then, perhaps even more so than it is today. An exception is formal wear, which I seem to find in abundance. I wish you the best of luck, as it is generally harder for you to find garments than it is for the ladies.
This is a labor of love, if you are looking the old fashioned way; but this is the internet age. Ladies and gentlemen, the secret is eBay.
With eBay, the key to success is knowing your measurements. Items in your size are out there! For the ladies, know your bust, waist, and hip measurements, and maybe rib cage, shoulder, and arm circumference. For gents, the same, plus inseam for pants and chest, maybe a few other measurements depending on the garment (feel free to weigh in, fellow shoppers). Knowing your measurements is power with vintage shopping, as many garments come without size labels or were handmade. Even if they did come with a size label, those sizes are different than the sizes we have today. The tape measure never lies. If the seller does not have the measurements listed on an item you like, simply message the seller for the measurements you need. If you are concerned about not being able to try on the garment, I repeat, the tape measure does not lie. Get more measurements from the seller and ask questions if you have concerns.
Once you know your measurements, start looking for clothing that you like. Some sellers will try to label things with S, M, L, XL, etc., but these are never accurate – I have purchased dresses labeled M to XXL, so there is no universal set of measurements for these seller labels. Ignore them. They only make you feel bad about yourself. Even if the dress looks too small or too large, click on it. You never know what size the model/mannequin is or if the garment has been pinned to appear fitted.
Once you find an item you like, compare its measurements to yours. If even one of the item’s measurements is smaller than yours, it’s not going to work. A bad idea is trying to squeeze yourself into something vintage – there is no lycra or spandex in these garments. If the item’s measurements are the same or a couple of inches larger than yours (or for ladies if the skirt is full, it won’t matter) then it should work. If the one or some of the measurements are more than a couple of inches larger, you may be able to have a trusted tailor work on the garment to tailor it to your body, or it may arrive and you like the way it fits. I have fallen in love with dresses that were a bit too large and a tuck here and there or a belt made all the difference. Also, some sellers measure circumference and others lay the garment flat to measure it – if the garment is measured flat, make sure to double the flat measurement to compare with your measurements.
This is all fine and dandy, but where are the clothes? I find dresses every day on eBay that are in my size and larger than my size. To give you some perspective, I have a 30 inch waist, which translates to a modern size 8 or 10. I actually think buying vintage clothing is easier than buying modern clothing because with supposedly (but not actually) homogenized sizes, who knows how the garment is going to be cut in the hips, waist, or bust? Measurements take a lot of the guesswork out of fitting clothing. But I digress. I know people get sensitive about sizes being labeled large or plus sized, so I’m treading lightly here, but with the myth the bar is already set so high…if vintage clothing is only for tiny people (modern size 0, 2, or 4 for women, or for men, any chest size 38 or below? Sorry gents, I’m not sure), then any sizes above tiny will bust the myth, right? Let’s go with that. Here are some mythbusting items from eBay:
5 thoughts on “Vintage Mythbuster: Vintage Clothing is Only for Tiny People”
Great post! One of the biggest myths about vintage is that everyone was tiny in past decades, but the reality is just the opposite – 25″ waists were as unusual then as now, so those clothes haven’t been worn and destroyed at the same fast rate as the bigger stuff.
Even if you’re a small size, it’s not like vintage clothes fall out of the heavens like manna – part of building a collection is hunting, and that takes time, money and effort no matter what.
As a vintage shop owner – one important BUT TOTALLY MISUNDERSTOOD tip I can give is that the BUST measurement should be the full measurement of the FULLEST part of your bust WITH YOUR BRA ON.
It really has NOTHING to do with your bra size!!! Just because you wear a 34 B does not mean you can wear a 34″ bust!!!
I wear a 36 B, but require a minimum of 38″ (if the garment should fit snugly) but generally need at least 40″. If it should be blousy, we’re looking at around 42″.
Something to keep in mind!
And THANK YOU for pointing out that if even one measurement of the item is smaller that it will not fit – I have signs in my dressing rooms that remind people that VINTAGE DOES NOT STRETCH. Please don’t force fit — pretty please? You can’t make a vintage garment fit by force of will – but you CAN bust a seam or a zipper, or (God forbid) destroy the fabric altogether.
Great tips! Thanks!
Although not vintage there are many designers that are making vintage reproduction or vintage inspired new clothing. These often come in sizes for modern women and I think they are a good option if you need something in a hurry.
Otherwise I agree, vintage clothes do come in larger sizes, and they look awesome no matter what your size.
Another thing worth the mentioning: TAILORING!
You may wish to compare the garments measurements with something you have that is of similar cut and fits you well. Larger ones are easier to display and have more value if the item can be worn….There are fabulous finds dismal duds and everything in between from every period. Interesting and beautiful fabrics have a way of standing the test of time.